July 17
No notes for a while - maybe 10 days? Other notes have gone into my blog, so I'll assume nothing since crossing the border into Kagistan then Kyrkistan where we now are. The crossing from Uzbeckistan to Kagistan was another driery process. Excessively hot with lots of processing - first us, the passengers, then the truck with Pete doing all that was required to get him and Penelope through. Four hours in total. At least 2 waiting for Pete on the Kagistan side of the border. Hot! Small vendors and money exchangers among us - trans continental trucks lined up apparently sometimes for days waiting their turned to be processed. The drivers seem resigned to the wait, passing time smoking or sleeping where they could find shade. We roasted. I attempted some sketching.... Pete and Penelope through the gates, we load up, and before we were even seated, Pete roared off. Enough of this place.
There were two bush camps in Kagistan on our way to the Kyrgystan border where we really wanted to go. The land scrape slowly began to change and we moved from flat desert land into a valley where we could now see hills on either side. The first stop was in a farmer's field who was all smiles seeing us pitching camp at dusk. The sunset was charming and the sun rise spectacular - me up by 5:30 to walk up the path looking for a toilet stop among the srubs. The next day we stopped in a town to pick up supplies - us passagers walked the streets and the markets for a bit picking up a few things to munch on or drink for the next leg of the journey. The next campsite was a place more familiar to Pete - but more surprising in its beauty with mountains now visible in the background.
The Kyrkistan border was almost a delight - only an hour and we were all through. The border security smiled and said 'welcome' as we went through the Kyrkistan gate. That night we spent in a hotel with a pool! Some walks through the downtown of the capital city - very Russian - now I remember earlier notes on this stop over
A few hours on the road the next day, a stop for more supplies, then off on a dirt road to take us into a valley of yerts, and sheep and horses and children and people, now also much cooler with children playing in their wool sweaters and adults most often in hats and jackets.
That night we stayed in a yert - 4 or 5 in each. Cozy and comfortable with dirt floors covered by rugs, and bedding piled to make it warm and inviting for the night. Dinner and breakfast were served in one yert set up with tables where we sat on the rugs legs crossed or out and under. No back rest so not so comfortable for many, but fun to try something different never the less.
We just had one night of dressup, again camping but only a few hundred yards from the yerts where we stayed. Many had picked up costumes at the capital city, shopping at a market while I treated my foot. But I had things I could wear anyway - alot of fun all round and a huge feast with sheppard pie, cake made in a crock pot and hot alcholic drinks - yum.
Today was a horse back ride to see a water fall in the mountains - just me and Hazel. Our guides rode double with us to show us the way and keep us upright on the horses - a good thing. The waterfalls was glorious but so was the view of the valley as we climbed under bright blue sky, our horses following narrow paths along steep hillsides. Almost as glorious as the night before - I decided to camp out under the stars using a folded tent as a tarp, and just me, my sleeping bag and air mattress by the bond fire set up for the party. I was tripple warm - lots of dew but it didn't reach me with the layers I had put on. And the sky was perfect - I kept waking myself not to miss it, with stars all out and no moon or cloud to block the panarama against the mountain shadows in the distance. The last bit of excitment for the day. Took a nap after the waterfall adventure with rain coming in and so I closed up tight - 3 different zippers - before the snooze. Of course not wanting to go out I lay there with bladder building. Finally time to make a move out. Zippers stuck and me crossing legs...telling my bladder to settle just a couple of more seconds. The last zipper down and the door burst open with me tumbling out. I peed my pants... no one saw - my pants had another wash and are hanging inside the food tent.
How could I forget the incredible inland lake we camped by three nights ago. There is no sequence to my memory anymore. So wonderful to be able to swim in fresh water. We are again off to the mountains tomorrow after a night here at the homestead.
July 22
Finished the most amazing 3 days in the mountains. A great plain of roaming herds - hundreds to thousands of sheep, cattle and horses! Herdsmen living in yerts for these summer months likely to return to their winter homes in the towns come September. I dipped into the 2nd highest inland lake in the world while the weather was brisk but sunny and still warm until evening. Road a horse across the plains yesterday for half the day. A very tamed beast - though stubborne and mostly just wanted to graze. I didn't mind too much - to awestruck with what I could see.
Again unable to share pictures - poor internet but I will try when I can...also forgive spelling. Never could spell.
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