Monday, July 22, 2013
Pics finally!
Here you go. All attached are from Krygyzstan... the dress up party in the valley included ... the scenic pictures do not do justice to what we've seen. Hope you enjoy.
Kyrgyzstan - mountains, icy rivers, cold lakes - ultimately glorious
July 17
No notes for a while - maybe 10 days? Other notes have gone into my blog, so I'll assume nothing since crossing the border into Kagistan then Kyrkistan where we now are. The crossing from Uzbeckistan to Kagistan was another driery process. Excessively hot with lots of processing - first us, the passengers, then the truck with Pete doing all that was required to get him and Penelope through. Four hours in total. At least 2 waiting for Pete on the Kagistan side of the border. Hot! Small vendors and money exchangers among us - trans continental trucks lined up apparently sometimes for days waiting their turned to be processed. The drivers seem resigned to the wait, passing time smoking or sleeping where they could find shade. We roasted. I attempted some sketching.... Pete and Penelope through the gates, we load up, and before we were even seated, Pete roared off. Enough of this place.
There were two bush camps in Kagistan on our way to the Kyrgystan border where we really wanted to go. The land scrape slowly began to change and we moved from flat desert land into a valley where we could now see hills on either side. The first stop was in a farmer's field who was all smiles seeing us pitching camp at dusk. The sunset was charming and the sun rise spectacular - me up by 5:30 to walk up the path looking for a toilet stop among the srubs. The next day we stopped in a town to pick up supplies - us passagers walked the streets and the markets for a bit picking up a few things to munch on or drink for the next leg of the journey. The next campsite was a place more familiar to Pete - but more surprising in its beauty with mountains now visible in the background.
The Kyrkistan border was almost a delight - only an hour and we were all through. The border security smiled and said 'welcome' as we went through the Kyrkistan gate. That night we spent in a hotel with a pool! Some walks through the downtown of the capital city - very Russian - now I remember earlier notes on this stop over
A few hours on the road the next day, a stop for more supplies, then off on a dirt road to take us into a valley of yerts, and sheep and horses and children and people, now also much cooler with children playing in their wool sweaters and adults most often in hats and jackets.
That night we stayed in a yert - 4 or 5 in each. Cozy and comfortable with dirt floors covered by rugs, and bedding piled to make it warm and inviting for the night. Dinner and breakfast were served in one yert set up with tables where we sat on the rugs legs crossed or out and under. No back rest so not so comfortable for many, but fun to try something different never the less.
We just had one night of dressup, again camping but only a few hundred yards from the yerts where we stayed. Many had picked up costumes at the capital city, shopping at a market while I treated my foot. But I had things I could wear anyway - alot of fun all round and a huge feast with sheppard pie, cake made in a crock pot and hot alcholic drinks - yum.
Today was a horse back ride to see a water fall in the mountains - just me and Hazel. Our guides rode double with us to show us the way and keep us upright on the horses - a good thing. The waterfalls was glorious but so was the view of the valley as we climbed under bright blue sky, our horses following narrow paths along steep hillsides. Almost as glorious as the night before - I decided to camp out under the stars using a folded tent as a tarp, and just me, my sleeping bag and air mattress by the bond fire set up for the party. I was tripple warm - lots of dew but it didn't reach me with the layers I had put on. And the sky was perfect - I kept waking myself not to miss it, with stars all out and no moon or cloud to block the panarama against the mountain shadows in the distance. The last bit of excitment for the day. Took a nap after the waterfall adventure with rain coming in and so I closed up tight - 3 different zippers - before the snooze. Of course not wanting to go out I lay there with bladder building. Finally time to make a move out. Zippers stuck and me crossing legs...telling my bladder to settle just a couple of more seconds. The last zipper down and the door burst open with me tumbling out. I peed my pants... no one saw - my pants had another wash and are hanging inside the food tent.
How could I forget the incredible inland lake we camped by three nights ago. There is no sequence to my memory anymore. So wonderful to be able to swim in fresh water. We are again off to the mountains tomorrow after a night here at the homestead.
July 22
Finished the most amazing 3 days in the mountains. A great plain of roaming herds - hundreds to thousands of sheep, cattle and horses! Herdsmen living in yerts for these summer months likely to return to their winter homes in the towns come September. I dipped into the 2nd highest inland lake in the world while the weather was brisk but sunny and still warm until evening. Road a horse across the plains yesterday for half the day. A very tamed beast - though stubborne and mostly just wanted to graze. I didn't mind too much - to awestruck with what I could see.
Again unable to share pictures - poor internet but I will try when I can...also forgive spelling. Never could spell.
No notes for a while - maybe 10 days? Other notes have gone into my blog, so I'll assume nothing since crossing the border into Kagistan then Kyrkistan where we now are. The crossing from Uzbeckistan to Kagistan was another driery process. Excessively hot with lots of processing - first us, the passengers, then the truck with Pete doing all that was required to get him and Penelope through. Four hours in total. At least 2 waiting for Pete on the Kagistan side of the border. Hot! Small vendors and money exchangers among us - trans continental trucks lined up apparently sometimes for days waiting their turned to be processed. The drivers seem resigned to the wait, passing time smoking or sleeping where they could find shade. We roasted. I attempted some sketching.... Pete and Penelope through the gates, we load up, and before we were even seated, Pete roared off. Enough of this place.
There were two bush camps in Kagistan on our way to the Kyrgystan border where we really wanted to go. The land scrape slowly began to change and we moved from flat desert land into a valley where we could now see hills on either side. The first stop was in a farmer's field who was all smiles seeing us pitching camp at dusk. The sunset was charming and the sun rise spectacular - me up by 5:30 to walk up the path looking for a toilet stop among the srubs. The next day we stopped in a town to pick up supplies - us passagers walked the streets and the markets for a bit picking up a few things to munch on or drink for the next leg of the journey. The next campsite was a place more familiar to Pete - but more surprising in its beauty with mountains now visible in the background.
The Kyrkistan border was almost a delight - only an hour and we were all through. The border security smiled and said 'welcome' as we went through the Kyrkistan gate. That night we spent in a hotel with a pool! Some walks through the downtown of the capital city - very Russian - now I remember earlier notes on this stop over
A few hours on the road the next day, a stop for more supplies, then off on a dirt road to take us into a valley of yerts, and sheep and horses and children and people, now also much cooler with children playing in their wool sweaters and adults most often in hats and jackets.
That night we stayed in a yert - 4 or 5 in each. Cozy and comfortable with dirt floors covered by rugs, and bedding piled to make it warm and inviting for the night. Dinner and breakfast were served in one yert set up with tables where we sat on the rugs legs crossed or out and under. No back rest so not so comfortable for many, but fun to try something different never the less.
We just had one night of dressup, again camping but only a few hundred yards from the yerts where we stayed. Many had picked up costumes at the capital city, shopping at a market while I treated my foot. But I had things I could wear anyway - alot of fun all round and a huge feast with sheppard pie, cake made in a crock pot and hot alcholic drinks - yum.
Today was a horse back ride to see a water fall in the mountains - just me and Hazel. Our guides rode double with us to show us the way and keep us upright on the horses - a good thing. The waterfalls was glorious but so was the view of the valley as we climbed under bright blue sky, our horses following narrow paths along steep hillsides. Almost as glorious as the night before - I decided to camp out under the stars using a folded tent as a tarp, and just me, my sleeping bag and air mattress by the bond fire set up for the party. I was tripple warm - lots of dew but it didn't reach me with the layers I had put on. And the sky was perfect - I kept waking myself not to miss it, with stars all out and no moon or cloud to block the panarama against the mountain shadows in the distance. The last bit of excitment for the day. Took a nap after the waterfall adventure with rain coming in and so I closed up tight - 3 different zippers - before the snooze. Of course not wanting to go out I lay there with bladder building. Finally time to make a move out. Zippers stuck and me crossing legs...telling my bladder to settle just a couple of more seconds. The last zipper down and the door burst open with me tumbling out. I peed my pants... no one saw - my pants had another wash and are hanging inside the food tent.
How could I forget the incredible inland lake we camped by three nights ago. There is no sequence to my memory anymore. So wonderful to be able to swim in fresh water. We are again off to the mountains tomorrow after a night here at the homestead.
July 22
Finished the most amazing 3 days in the mountains. A great plain of roaming herds - hundreds to thousands of sheep, cattle and horses! Herdsmen living in yerts for these summer months likely to return to their winter homes in the towns come September. I dipped into the 2nd highest inland lake in the world while the weather was brisk but sunny and still warm until evening. Road a horse across the plains yesterday for half the day. A very tamed beast - though stubborne and mostly just wanted to graze. I didn't mind too much - to awestruck with what I could see.
Again unable to share pictures - poor internet but I will try when I can...also forgive spelling. Never could spell.
Saturday, July 13, 2013
Bishkek Kyrgyzstan
We are here for a day only. Off to 'bush camp' enroute to the mountains. All I can think of is Russia.... there is so much here in monuments and architecture, as reminders of a previous era not so long ago. The language is Russian - the people a mix of Turk, Arabic, Mongolian and Russian faces. Dress is modern most times, with some hints of traditional Asian garb among the women. Modern malls with lots of technology - streets and road much as you would expect in a European city with throw backs when the occasional donkey cart goes through. Lots of open markets - fruit vegetables breads and meats. I have discovered chemists on every corner as I looked for a wart remover... took me 5 attempts and on the 5th was successful after I copied the translation of what I needed from
a website - very careful as its almost a totally different alphabete.
We are now leaving for 8 days...may not have website till after...
a website - very careful as its almost a totally different alphabete.
We are now leaving for 8 days...may not have website till after...
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
Saturday, July 6, 2013
Pics of Uzbekistan
This has been the most amazing country for experiencing the old stopping points for caravans following the Silk Road trade routes. Difficulties in getting the visas and permissions into the country have discouraged foreign tourism to a large extent so we've been a bit of a novelty, especially off the tourist track...stopped our truck to day by a local tea house - had tea, but really needed the toilet stop. Tea was served - the hosts wouldn't accept payment, and smiled us on our way. People also love to have there pictures taken, especially if I use my tablet..they love to see the immediate results on screen. Smiles, lots of children waving and saying 'hello!'.
An honorary meant to our guides and drivers - Pete and Kirstin. Without their experience and knowledge of the country and how to work with officials at borders, we would never have gotten here - I would never have seen this on my own!
Cities out of the sands of Uzbekistan...
An honorary meant to our guides and drivers - Pete and Kirstin. Without their experience and knowledge of the country and how to work with officials at borders, we would never have gotten here - I would never have seen this on my own!
Cities out of the sands of Uzbekistan...
Thursday, July 4, 2013
Sharing the journey a bit
We've been on the road at least 5 weeks now. I am definitely not keeping up with journaling and blogging this whole adventure. So some thoughts to share. Central Asia is full of contrasts. The dessert seems to unit it all - the most common thread. But moods, expressions and level of sustained traditions are different depending on where we've landed. Azerbaycan had its military display of might - modern cities and rich expensive cars in its capital city. Scared me the most - a real hatred for Armenia, a Christian state...we couldn't cross directly into Azebaycan from Armenia but had to go back through Georgia to do so. Where tourism is strongest in Georgia, the people are less happy - I wonder about the pressures of Europeon investment on the traditions of the land, but also on its resources. The best smiles have come from Ubeckistan so far. Not so tainted by the overwhelm of a foreign culture. In the country side of all countries are what one would expect of a rural landscape a hundred years ago, with women and men in more traditional peasant dress... walks in villages have included scrambling around chickens, goats and cows. I got to drink camel milk on invitation of a village family. The baby camel was tide to a stake under a very sparse tree...
People talk of a changing micro climate here. Irrigated lands following more investment around major cities has apparently increased percipitation. We experienced rained where it shouldn't have been driving between cities and across borders. Others claim the impact of a space launch somewhere in the dessert as impacting climate on occasion. I personally am wondering if its more than a micro climate shift... the same story keeps following us.
The highest temperature I've been told we've experienced so far was 43 degrees. We missed 52 in one city by a day apparently. Whatever, its hot, but much more pleasant in the evenings when temperatures can drop by 10 degrees and the winds can sometimes pick up. One night in the dessert with wind created a bit of a dust storm... food was a bit more 'salted' than usual...its nice to have these breaks in hotels between bush camping.
People talk of a changing micro climate here. Irrigated lands following more investment around major cities has apparently increased percipitation. We experienced rained where it shouldn't have been driving between cities and across borders. Others claim the impact of a space launch somewhere in the dessert as impacting climate on occasion. I personally am wondering if its more than a micro climate shift... the same story keeps following us.
The highest temperature I've been told we've experienced so far was 43 degrees. We missed 52 in one city by a day apparently. Whatever, its hot, but much more pleasant in the evenings when temperatures can drop by 10 degrees and the winds can sometimes pick up. One night in the dessert with wind created a bit of a dust storm... food was a bit more 'salted' than usual...its nice to have these breaks in hotels between bush camping.
Desert and Ash
The best of Turkmenistan....the fires represent a gas craytor where gases have been burning for at least the last 50 years.
Pictures taken last week in June...before Ubeckistan.
Pictures taken last week in June...before Ubeckistan.
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